Euljiro & Ikseondong
Ikseon-dong & Euljiro: Seoul's Most Charming Alleys, Day and Night Hanok cafés in the afternoon, outdoor beer alleys in the evening — and one family BBQ spot that makes the whole thing work with kids. There's a rhythm to this part of Seoul that I love. Ikseon-dong (익선동) is a daytime neighborhood — all narrow alleys, tiled rooftops, and hanok cafés where you sit in a wooden-floored courtyard and wonder how you're still in the middle of a city of ten million people. And then, a short walk away, Euljiro (을지로) comes alive in the evening — plastic stools spilling out onto alleys, cold draft beer, dried pollack on the grill, old men and young people sitting side by side at outdoor tables under fluorescent lights. Seoul at its most unpretentious. These two neighborhoods sit next to each other in Jung-gu, close to Insadong and Myeongdong, and they reward people who treat them as a full day rather than a quick stop. Spend the afternoon in Ikseon-dong's alley...